Fashion models on the runway in 2008
A behind the scenes photo of a model's
photo shoot taken "on location" for a
magazine editorial

A model (from Middle French modelle )[1] is a person with a
role either to promote , display or advertise commercial
products (notably fashion clothing), or to serve as a visual
aide for people who are creating works of art or to pose for
photography .
Modelling ("modeling" in American English ) is considered to
be different from other types of public performance , such
as acting or dancing. Although the difference between
modelling and performing is not always clear, appearing in a
film or a play is not generally considered to be "modelling".
Types of modelling include: fashion, glamour, fitness, bikini,
fine art, body-part, promotional and commercial print
models. Models are featured in a variety of media formats
including: books , magazines , films , newspapers, internet
and TV . Fashion models are sometimes featured in films:

( Looker), reality TV shows (America's Next Top Model and
The Janice Dickinson Modeling Agency ) and music videos :
(" Freedom! '90 ", "Wicked Game", " Daughters" and "Blurred
Lines ").
Celebrities , including actors , singers , sports personalities
and reality TV stars , frequently take modelling contracts in
addition to their regular work.
History
Early years
Modelling as a profession was first established in 1853 by
Charles Frederick Worth , the "father of haute couture ", when
he asked his wife, Marie Vernet Worth, to model the clothes
he designed. [2][3] The term "house model " was coined to
describe this type of work. Eventually, this became common
practice for Parisian fashion houses . There were no
standard physical measurement requirements for a model,
and most designers would use women of varying sizes to
demonstrate variety in their designs .
With the development of fashion photography , the
modelling profession expanded to photo modelling. Models
remained fairly anonymous, and relatively poorly paid, until
the late 1950s. One of the first well-known models was Lisa
Fonssagrives , who was very popular in the 1930s. [4]
Fonssagrives appeared on over 200 Vogue covers, and her
name recognition led to the importance of Vogue in shaping
the careers of fashion models. In 1946, Ford Models was
established by Eileen and Gerard Ford in New York; it is one
of the oldest model agencies in the world. One of the most
popular models during the 1940s was Jinx Falkenburg who
was paid $25 per hour, a large sum at the time. [5] During
the 1940s and 1950s, Wilhelmina Cooper , Jean Patchett ,
Dovima , Dorian Leigh , Suzy Parker, Evelyn Tripp , Carmen
Dell'Orefice , and Lisa Fonssagrives dominated fashion

. [6]
Dorothea Church was among the first black models in the
industry to gain notoriety in Paris. However, these models
were unknown outside the fashion community. Compared
to today's models, the models of the 1950s were more
voluptuous. Wilhelmina Cooper 's measurements were
38"-24"-36" whereas Chanel Iman's measurements are
32"-23"-33". [7]
The 1960s and the beginning of the
industry
Jean Shrimpton in 1965
In the 1960s, the modelling world began to establish
modelling agencies. Throughout Europe, secretarial services
acted as models' agents charging them weekly rates for
their messages and bookings. For the most part, models
were responsible for their own billing. In Germany, agents
were not allowed to work for a percentage of a person's
earnings, so referred to themselves as secretaries. With the
exception of a few models travelling to Paris or New York,
travelling was relatively unheard of for a model. Most
models only worked in one market due to different labor
laws governing modelling in various countries. In the 1960s,
Italy had many fashion houses and fashion magazines but
was in dire need of models. Italian agencies would often
coerce models to return to Italy without work visas by
withholding their pay. [8] They would also pay their models
in cash, which models would have to hide from customs
agents. It was not uncommon for models staying in hotels
such as La Louisiana in Paris or the Arena in Milan to have
their hotel rooms raided by the police looking for their work
visas. It was rumoured that competing agencies were
behind the raids. This led many agencies to form worldwide
chains; for example, the Marilyn Agency has branches in
Paris and New York. [8]
By the late 1960s, London was considered the best market
in Europe due to its more organised and innovative
approach to modelling. It was during this period that
models began to become household names. Models such
as Jean Shrimpton , Joanna Lumley , Tania Mallet, Celia
Hammond , Twiggy , Penelope Tree , and Pauline Stone
dominated the London fashion scene and were well paid,
unlike their predecessors. [9] Twiggy became The Face of '66
at the age of 16. [10] At this time, model agencies were not
as restrictive about the models they represented, although it
was uncommon for them to sign shorter models. Twiggy,
who stood at 5 feet 6 inches (168 cm) with a 32" bust and
had a boy's haircut, is credited with changing model ideals.
At that time, she earned £80 an hour, while the average
wage was £15 a week.
In 1967, seven of the top model agents in London formed
the Association of London Model Agents. The formation of
this association helped legitimize modelling and changed
the fashion industry. Even with a more professional attitude
towards modelling, models were still expected to have their
hair and makeup done before they arrived at a shoot.
Meanwhile, agencies took responsibility for a model's
promotional materials and branding. That same year, former
top fashion model Wilhelmina Cooper opened up her own
fashion agency with her husband called Wilhelmina Models .
By 1968, FM Agency and Models 1 were established and
represented models in a similar way that agencies do
today. [11][12] By the late 1960s, models were treated better
and were making better wages. One of the innovators, Ford
Models, was the first agency to advance models money
they were owed and would often allow teen models, who
did not live locally, to reside in their house, a precursor to
model housing.
The 1970s and 1980s
The innovations of the 1960s flowed into the 1970s fashion
scene. As a result of model industry associations and
standards, [13] model agencies became more business
minded, and more thought went into a model's promotional
materials. By this time, agencies were starting to pay for a
model's publicity. [8] In the early 1970s, Scandinavia had
many tall, leggy, blonde-haired, blue-eyed models and not
enough clients. It was during this time that Ford Models
pioneered scouting.[8] They would spend time working with
agencies holding modelling contests. This was the
precursor to the Ford Models Supermodel of the World
competition which was established in 1980. Ford also
focused their attentions on Brazil which had a wide array of
seemingly "exotic" models, which eventually led to
establishment of Ford Models Brazil. It was also during this
time that the Sports Illustrated Swimsuit Issue debuted. The
magazine set a trend by photographing "bigger and
healthier" California models, [14] and printing their names by
their photos, thus turning many of them into household
names and establishing the issue as a hallmark of
supermodel status. [14]
Beverly Johnson in 2007
The 1970s marked numerous milestones in fashion. Beverly
Johnson was the first African American to appear on the
cover of U.S. Vogue in 1974. [15] Models, including Grace
Jones, Pat Cleveland , Donyale Luna , Minah Bird , Naomi
Sims , and Toukie Smith were some of the top black fashion
models who paved the way for black women in fashion. In
1975, Margaux Hemingway landed a then-unprecedented
million-dollar contract as the face of Fabergé 's Babe
perfume and the same year appeared on the cover of Time
magazine, labelled one of the "New Beauties," giving further
name recognition to fashion models. [16]
Many of the world's most prominent modelling agencies
were established in the 1970s and early 1980s. These
agencies created the standard by which agencies now run.
In 1974, Nevs Models was established in London with only
a men's board, the first of its kind. Elite Models was
founded in Paris in 1975 as well as Friday's Models in
Japan. [17][18] The next year Cal-Carries was established in
Singapore, the first of a chain of agencies in Asia. In 1977,
Select Model Management opened its doors as well as Why
Not Models in Milan. By the 1980s, agencies such as
Premier Model Management, Storm Models, Mikas, Marilyn,
and Metropolitan Models had been established.
In October 1981, Life cited Shelley Hack , Lauren Hutton and
Iman for Revlon, Margaux Hemingway for Fabergé, Karen
Graham for Estee Lauder , Christina Ferrare for Max Factor,
and Cheryl Tiegs for CoverGirl by proclaiming them the
"million dollar faces" of the beauty industry. These models
negotiated previously unheard of lucrative and exclusive
deals with giant cosmetics companies, were instantly
recognizable, and their names became well known to the
public. [19]

By the 1980s, most models were able to make modelling a
full-time career. It was common for models to travel abroad
and work throughout Europe. As modelling became global,
numerous agencies began to think globally. In 1980, Ford
Models, the innovator of scouting, introduced the Ford
Models Supermodel of the World contest. [20] That same
year, John Casablancas opened Elite Models in New York.
In 1981, cosmetics companies began contracting top
models to lucrative endorsement deals. By 1983, Elite
developed its own contest titled the Elite Model Look
competition. In New York during the 1980s there were so-
called "model wars" in which the Ford and Elite agencies
fought over models and campaigns. Models were jumping
back and forth between agencies such Elite, Wilhelmina,
and Ford. [21] In New York, the late 1980s trend was the
boyish look in which models had short cropped hair and
looked androgynous . In Europe, the trend was the exact
opposite. During this time, a lot of American models who
were considered more feminine looking moved abroad. [22]
By the mid-1980s, big hair was made popular by some
musical groups, and the boyish look was out. The
curvaceous models who had been popular in the 1950s and
early 1970s were in style again. Models like Patti Hansen

earned $200 an hour for print and $2,000 for television plus
residuals .[23] It was estimated that Hansen earned about
$300,000 a year during the 1980s.